Cycling GTTS Road

4/19/2015 – Glacier National Park offers its visitors one heck of a special experience during early spring by opening the legendarily beautiful Going-To-The-Sun-Road up to cyclists and hikers (only) while they are plowing it out.  The road, which crosses Logan Pass, is one of the few to penetrate deep into GNP’s alpine core.  It offers visitors stunning vistas of the glacier-carved valleys and eroding massifs that characterize the park’s wondrous terrain.

Being that it has been a mild winter here in NW Montana, the road-clearing crew is roughly a month ahead of schedule, allowing access further into the sacred mountains than usually possible so early in the year.   Grete and I rallied up there on a couple of borrowed road bikes from my new employer, Glacier Cyclery, and rode along with a new friend of ours – Pete (who also works at the Cyclery and has a whole bunch of experience in GNP).  Pete turned on tour-guide mode and we ate-up the glory of the new experience!  We also saw the owners of Glacier Cyclery – the Brunks – cruising on their tandem, and a handful of other locals.  This little Flathead community is just what we were looking for and the day only helped further our happiness to be here!

Here are some pictures from the ride…

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Another Traverse

3/29/15 – Well, another birthday came around and Grete invited me to join her (and our buddy Justin) on another ski traverse.  This isn’t the first time she’s asked me to walk pretty far in ski boots… Our relationship got its first glimmer while wandering for 14 hours during the Elk Mountains Grand Traverse a couple of years ago (again on my birthday).  So, of course, I had to take her up on the offer!

Justin had hatched the idea to go traverse the Apgar Range in Glacier National Park.  He brought it up to Grete, who thought it seemed like an awesome birthday activity.  The Apgar Range is a micro-range in the western side of the park along the North Fork of the Flathead River.  The views into the park, out onto the Whitefish Range, and back into the Flathead Valley are awesome, and the adventure was not one soon to be forgotten!

The “ski” traverse began with a couple thousand feet of good authentic bushwacking, then a bit of skinning up to the Huckleberry Lookout atop the northern peak of the range.  After that, we skinned, skied, skin-skied, and booted our way along the ridge line, enjoying views, finding animal tracks (fresh wolf!) and chit-chatting all the way to the Apgar Lookout atop the southern-most peak of the range.  From there, it was a quick hike back down a dirt trail to our dropped shuttle car.  All in all, it turned out to be a glorious ~25 mile day out, with excellent weather, awesome peeps, and few (if any) blisters!

Here are the photos…. as usual

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The Lower Salmon

9/3 to 9/10/2013 – Grete and I have worked for an excellent rafting company, Liquid Descent, for the past few summers doing daily sections of quality Colorado whitewater.  Guiding whitewater with paying guests can get a little repetitive after a while and our perpetually-super-stoked owner, Alan, proposed the idea of a multi-day trip to wrap up the season.  It sounded like a great way to roll into the shoulder season and fit wonderfully between riding on the Colorado Trail, a visit back to Washington, and riding the Kokopelli… so Grete and I were in!

The trip was planned to be roughly a week out on the Lower Salmon in Idaho.  We rafted in what would be considered low water, for locals, but enjoyed the change in scenery and pace that the trip offered.  I could go into more detail about the many adventures of the trip, but instead will simply let the photos tell the story…

Also, there are two stories worth mentioning, not told by photos:

1. Grete super-wrapping the gear-boat (with mini-me trailer boat) in Chinaman’s Rapid

2. The 24-hour drive back with White Lightning (the van) overheating almost hourly…

Great friends, white sand beaches, and lots of beer made for excellent trip I won’t ever forget!

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The Columbia Plateau Trail – WAY HARDER THAN IT LOOKS

3/18 to 3/21/2015 – Looking for a quick way to buck the recent “routine” Grete and I have developed around Whitefish (given the little snow and rainy forecast), we began searching for a quality adventure that would be low stress in a slightly drier place.  Soon, I discovered the Columbia Plateau Trail – an old railroad bed converted for bicycle travel – connecting Spokane with the Tri-Cities and figured out that we could connect to the trail and back purely with Amtrak.  What really sealed the deal was a review stating part of the trail “isn’t really meant for the tires of a bike unless you have the great big fat ones for riding in sand…” With eastern-Washington calling for a couple days of warm and dry weather, it seemed like the perfect mellow bikepacking trip to get the wheels turning for summer!

Beginning the journey with a late-arrived train, we headed out of Whitefish at 1030pm, arriving into the heart of a dark downtown Spokane at 3am with bikes, gear, and no place to be…  We assembled the bikes, contemplated safe and free places to sleep, then opted to just ride out of town (15 miles) to the trailhead and hopefully catch a couple hours of sleep there.  Nighttime navigation of unfamiliar cities is EXCITING!  We ended up hopping into our sleeping bags right at the crack of dawn, and slept until mid-morning… not the best start to a tour…

Later that day we rode ~25 miles of paved then maintained gravel trail through Turnbill National Wildlife Sanctuary, and the beautiful rolling Palouse Hills, to the Martin Road trailhead and crashed early to try to catch up on sleep.  The next morning, we began rolling through the ballast… and the hopes of 2nd-ring spinning quickly diminished into a slow, bumpy slog of a day.  Brief sections the trail offered some variety, with swampy grasslands overcoming the old railroad beds, offering quality cattle-track-singletrack as well as character-building bushwacking-granny-gear-riding-hike-a-biking.  Occasionally, we’d pass a nearly deserted little farm town with ghostly silos standing proud in the horizon.

After 30 miles of brutal riding, we swung into Benge, WA to stretch and consider our options. From there it seemed the trail would parallel a couple of state routes and cross through a few small towns, but would not improve.  Also, considering that Grete’s knee had begun acting up due to the constant rattling of the ballast, the pavement bliss sounded magnificent when compared to more low-speed, jarring “bicycling.”  We rallied onward, arriving in Wastucna, WA just before nightfall, and camped out in their lovely town park.

Waking to a symphony of birds singing all around us, we had renewed hopes for the trail ahead.  We opted, again, for a bit more paved road to Kahlotus, WA and began to descend down to the Snake River.  We hoped to regain the trail (though always within sight of our road riding) near Burr Canyon, but were concerned with little gaps in the trail map along the Snake River section.  Turns out those gaps are old, un-maintained, barbed-wired and fenced-off (un-passable) railroad bridges crossing over small canyons.  Having discovered that, we continued linking small dirt farm-roads and pavement to the Snake River Road Junction/Trailhead and camped there that night.

The next morning we awoke excited at the mellow (assumed) day ahead, with 15 miles of maintained gravel trail left, then a short road jaunt into Pasco.  It turns out that when the road surface improves, this trail wants to keep it challenging.  As we pedalled off towards the Tri-Cities, the winds began to roar… directly at us… again bringing our hopes of high-gear cruising to a halt.  We rallied-on and made decent time through the stout head-winds to the Ice Harbor Trailhead, where the winds were nearly strong enough to blow you over while standing.  From there, the winds -unbelievably and hysterically- increased as we toiled our final miles into Pasco; battling in nearly our granny gears for almost two hours to ride a mere 12 paved miles.

Once in the Tri-Cities, a huge plate of curly fries, a chocolate milkshake, then dinner with family friends at the local brewery served as a glorious morale-boosters.  As we loaded the train back to Whitefish that night, we knew that we could sleep well after toiling through four days of far-more adventure than we had planned for!

So it turns out that the Columbia Plateau Trail is not very “converted” or “developed” for bicycle travel (or any decent travel)… The surface was leftover loose railroad ballast (2-4″ diameter basalt rock) for a majority of the trail, which rides “like sand, but with in-cohesive fist-sized grains,” as Grete described it. Also worth mentioning – if you are riding south-west towards the Columbia River Basin, expect a constant headwind… One plus of the ride is that it will tickle the ornithologist within each of us, with plentiful birds throughout singing and cheering you on.  Overall, I don’t think I would recommend this trail to anybody (except some really masochistic folks), but if it is improved over time, it could be a hidden gem of South-Eastern Washington.

Oh and the photos I’m sure you are expecting:

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The Forgotten Season

December 2012 to April 2013 – My second winter out in the Wasatch I skied alot.  I was fortunate to meet a new (and always available) friend and touring partner – Jesse Dudley – who was just as stoked to get out and after the mountains! The season also offered the most snow of my three seasons in the Wasatch, and most of it came in small consistent storms – the best type for backcountry skiing.  It turned out I was skiing so much that I largely stopped editing photos and definitely lost touch with my blog…

So this post is looking back at the many adventures of an excellent winter spent with incredible folks and fills the gap between A Couple More Tours and The Sawtooths… or is it Sawteeth?.  The people photographed here are (in no particular order): Jesse Dudley, Hannah Rossman, Kyle and Heidi Gilbert, Scot Livingstone, Dave Reed, Jonny Cromwell, Jay Bohlin, Jeremy Brodney, Doug Catherine, Aaron Goeller (aka Uncle Jimmy), Ian Reddell and Alex Jenson.  Mentionable adventures include: overnight under the Pfiefferhorn, Moonlight Basin, the Heart of Darkness, Terminal Cancer, and even more couloir/chute skiing!

Thanks to everybody that I had the opportunity to adventure with that season!  You folks made it as AWESOME and I apologize the photos are a little late…

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Fatbikes + Skiing = Adventure

2/28 & 3/2/2015 – Unfortunately, there hasn’t been much snow up in Northwestern Montana recently, but -on the plus side- the fatbiking has been excellent.  The trails have generally re-frozen or melted out and there is a quality weekly night group ride through Glacier Cyclery that we’ve been enjoying. Also, Grete and I grabbed the “Galloping Goober” (you may recognize from the Idaho Hot Springs Tour and the White Rim) and borrowed him (indefinitely) from Jonny… so that Grete could have a bike for skiing access and general enjoyment!  With all of these factors coming into play, I’ve spent a whole lot more time on my beloved Coutseau than on my skis as of recent!

We’ve learned that the real utility of the bicycles shine when used on snowmobile roads to access skiing that would normally be a toilsome and blistering affair merely hiking or skinning.  Two recent outings – to Chicken Creek in the Whitefish Range and Greater Jewel Basin in the Swan Range – proved this idea thoroughly… We enjoyed a clear day and awesome views up Chicken Creek, and finally skied some powder between wind gusts in Greater Jewel Basin! Excellent days of exploration…

PS – I think she’s finally coming around to the idea of fatbikes!

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First Tastes of the Whitefish Backcountry Goods…

2/15/2015 & 2/18/2015 – As many of you may know, Grete and I recently pulled the trigger and moved north to Whitefish, MT.  Upon committing to a move, the whole American West dried up and got warm… and with it our ambitions of quality backcountry adventuring in our new home.  Finally, after weeks of unseasonably warm temperatures and frequent rainstorms, a colder weather system dropped into NW Montana and locked up the super-moist snowpack. Although it wasn’t snowing (until today!), the skies cleared and we had the opportunity to stumble ourselves into a couple of excellent tours.

One of these was our first day of skiing (and Grete’s first day of her life) in Glacier National Park.  We went in with low expectations and planned to merely “walk with skis on” up Going-To-The-Sun Road to enjoy some views.  Thankfully, there was another trailhead where the road ended that led to either a backcountry chalet or a fire lookout.  Being the clear skies we figured the fire lookout would provide excellent views so long as we could get there.  A few hours and 4200′ later we arrived at the Mt. Brown lookout and were simply stunned with the terrain surrounding us!  The real icing on the cake was getting decent skiable turns (dust on crust leading to sloppy cream) for the upper 2k’ back down.  Yes, skis-on packs-booting on dirt trails was involved, but it was WELL worth it, as you will see:

A couple days later, we headed out to the “popular” Rescue Creek drainage in the Flathead Range, again with low-expectations exploring in mind.  At the trailhead we met Charlie, a friend of good friends of ours from Vermont through a random twist of fate!  The trail up to the base of Mt. Penrose was very firm and presented challenging skinning frequently.  We easily booted from the saddle (with Mt. Nyack) up to the summit of Mt. Penrose then enjoyed the glorious weather and views for a good while.  What glorious luck we had with weather!  The sun had heated the SW aspect of the mountain enough to enjoy firm but fun skiing back to the saddle.  From there, the turns back down the drainage to the trailhead were adventurous to say the least! All-in-all it was another great day out with a new a friend!

In conclusion, Grete and I couldn’t be more excited about the possibilities of our new home!  The spring looks to hold plenty of high-quality toiling and skiing given the size, beauty and challenge of the mountains in NW Montana… Its gonna be great!

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